From Greenwich Village to East Harlem and Coney Island, we trace the three century-old ovens—John’s of Bleecker Street, Patsy’s of East Harlem, and Totonno’s of Coney Island—keeping New York’s original coal-fired pizza tradition alive.

Manhattan’s Mulberry Street may draw the tour buses, but New York food insiders ride up to Belmont in The Bronx for four generations of uncompromising Italian-American craftsmanship.