From Greenwich Village to East Harlem and Coney Island, we trace the three century-old ovens—John’s of Bleecker Street, Patsy’s of East Harlem, and Totonno’s of Coney Island—keeping New York’s original coal-fired pizza tradition alive.

Lose yourself in the winding, wisteria-draped angles of the West Village—where West 4th Street crosses West 10th Street and nineteenth-century horse stables hide behind iron gates.